Friday, March 20, 2015

Getting old in a quickly changing world

     My host grandma moved in a couple weeks ago. She’s my host dad’s mom, no one really knows her age but somewhere in the 70s, and she is losing her hearing. Or perhaps its selective hearing because sometimes she decides she can hear me, and sometimes its just her talking to me with no pause to see if I’m talking. Most of the time though I find myself shouting jumbled Spanish at her for the whole neighborhood to hear, and she responds as if she didn’t hear anything. She has brought a new dynamic to the house, which I will attempt to explain in the following incidences that I have observed:

     At dinner whenever we are eating meat I will inevitably end up diving into the bones with my hands, and the juices will be running down my hands. My host grandmother waits for these moments when my hands of are particularly messy and just as I go in for the natural instinct of licking them up she jumps in and waves at my host mom to get me a towel to wipe up my hands. She always saves me from the cultural suicide of licking my fingers, for while spitting on the kitchen floor, dropping food you don’t want onto the floor, and sucking the marrow out of bones are all perfectly acceptable table manners, licking the good juices off my hands does not seem to be appropriate. Good thing they don’t have a maple syrup here for me to lick the plate clean.

     She has a habit of showing up outside my door and peeking her head in at me to see what I‘m up to. Most often I am sitting at my desk staring at my computer, which faces the door. She won’t say a word, rather she just posts up and watches me until I look up and smile at her. This is her cue to comment on the fact that I am spending my time sitting. “Just sitting” she says with a chuckle. I too will laugh at this point and then go back to my computer work leaving her to stare at me until she gets bored enough. Other times she posts up at my door is when she has found something of mine that I left in the kitchen or outside my room. She will then lean against the doorpost often in the darkness until I notice. She will then comment something along the lines of “This scarf is very warm, I suppose you left it on the kitchen bench for me.” She then reaches into the door, neither of us willing to move much from our positions, so I stretch out from my seat, and she leans into the door until final we make contact and I snatch the item back to place in my room. Causing my Grandmother to chuckle to herself as she goes back to the kitchen. Its funny in America often people go through the grandparent’s house to put claims on the items they went after their passing, here my host grandma is quite eager to put claims on my items that I should give to her when I go back home, and I can’t fit much in my suitcase. So far her name is on my kitchen pot, a broken water bottle, a teapot, a skirt that is clearly too small for her, and the fixture that I store my clothes in.

     The other day I am talking on the phone with a fellow Peace Corps volunteer while peering out my window with my back to the door in my room. I hear a startling growl and turn around to see my host grandmother at my door. In a whispering snarl that seems a bit annoyed she tells me that the wind has uplifted my underwear from where I had left them to dry. I clearly needed to pick it up off the ground before it is an embarrassment to everyone. Most of my underwear is grandma sized underwear anyways so I see no reason for being embarrassed, but nonetheless, I cut my phone conversation short in order to pick up my undies.

     She refuses to take her multi-vitamins because she claims that they make her sleepy. Whenever I come out of my room past 7:00am she makes a comment about what a free woman I am that I can just sleep right through the hours. Clearly sleeping too much is something that she is a bit self-conscious about. I tell her that when my real grandma was alive she took a nap every day at 3:00pm, and we all had to be extra quiet at these times. It was a big part of negotiating when to visit my grandma as to not disrupt her nap hour. My host grandma found this very peculiar and somewhat unbelievable. She would not be caught dead sleeping too much in the day, and thus continues to refuse to take her multi-vitamin pills.

     After every meal we feed the dogs the leftovers.  Without fail it is a conversation about which dog eats what. One of them refuses to eat soup, and without fail my host grandmother will comment on the fact the Zumba wont eat soup. He loves the rice but never goes for the soup. My host mom responds as if this is still interesting news, even though we talk about it everyday. The absurdity that a dog would be a picky eater seems to really confuse my host grandmother.

     Our favorite conversation to have is about what I have in my land. She inevitably starts the conversation off with “There are no carrots in your land are there” I will then correct her and say actually we do grow carrots. She will then go threw a list of things that are usually within site from where we are sitting, and ask if I have them back home. Finally she will come across some random jungle fruit that we don’t have in the United States, and she will be satisfied that she has discovered one thing that they have here that we don’t have in the States.


     I can’t imagine what changes in the world she has experienced in her life. She was born in a very rural annex of our town, with just about no contact with anyone outside of her village. She grew living completely off of the land. As soon as the road was built in the 80s the rush of modern day life hit the area by storm, and just about overnight new wonders became accessible. Now the people have figured out how to make a living off the land, and are even earning enough money to save up. The other day my host parents bought a cow, and for justification they proclaimed, “money sitting in a box doesn’t grow.” They intend to fatten up the cow to sell.  Now my host grandmother has a foreigner living in her house that comes from a completely different place, and clearly has a lot more money. I would give anything just to see the world threw her eyes for one day, just to better understand her perspective on this very confusing modern lifestyle that is quickly catching up to everyone all over the world.